Fashion Week welcomes back grunge look for fall
NEW YORK —Another season, another Fashion Week in Bryant Park. The Fall 2008 collections proved eclectic and suitable to many tastes. As leaves start to change colors so will wardrobes. Rich burgundy, rustic orange, mustard yellow and mahogany brown will compliment the autumn palette and translate well with bohemian themes.
The hippie and ’70s motif is best expressed with texture, as demonstrated by DKNY and Tibi. Donna Karan filled the DKNY collection with cozy knits that span hats and cardigans alike. Often contrasted with shimmery textured dresses, the knitwear brings an earthy feel.
At Tibi, knitwear played a key role in legwear as models strutted the runway in cable knit leggings that work especially well with separates. Tweed mini-skirts and high-waisted trousers paired well with flowing tie-neck blouses turning the look into a union between a sexy librarian and week-end-wear suited for the park.
Fall wouldn’t be complete without plaids, a wardrobe staple. Coupled with heavy fabrics the silhouettes carry aristocratic notes that prevail in hunting-inspired looks. Perry Ellis stood out with its jackets splashed in rich, sophisticated blues, greens and reds. Frequently shown with Hunter TK boots and paired with traveling bags, the clothes truly embraced an Earnest Hemmingway persona. Although sweaters and turtlenecks hid under blazers and leather jackets, the touch of knitwear added another dimension.
Carolina Herrera based her collection on the equestrian theme—complete with feather’s in hats. Perhaps not to be taken literally, retailers should note that her use of tweeds with chiffons could be interpreted as a strong, feminine medley. Opting for more checked plaid and vests, the collection also embodied men’s wear inspired undertones.
Perhaps the strongest example of plaid aimed at the younger customer comes from Gap. The entire collection traveled back into the ’90s grunge era. Flannel dresses, fringed scarves, over-the-shoulder canvas bags and cargo pants, all in muted industrial colors, sent out a reminder that although plaid is often thought of as classic, it can easily play in the urban market.
In addition to the expected fall colors (browns, oranges, grays and black), a palette of vibrant shades breaks up the monotony. Proenza Schouler splashed cocktail hour attire with a rainbow. In a world where satiny purple dresses don’t clash with orange tights and emerald shoes, a new wave of bold is born. Clearly, it takes a vivacious customer to don such an outfit, but the beauty of the bright color trend is that it is a perfect venue for selling accessories. Scarlet tights covered legs at Zac Posen, supplementing an outfit with additional flair.
Overall, legwear is going to be very important this fall. The runway saw modest black classics (often paired with bold-colored dresses), shimmery Lurex, textured knits and spectacular bright stockings.